American frontier history and the Old West play a large role in our country’s history. Over the years it’s been glamorized by Hollywood – tales of cowboys and Indians, gambling, prostitution, and gun fights. So we went seeking the history and a little debauchery in the Old West towns of Tombstone and Bisbee, Arizona.
Tombstone and Bisbee’s histories are typical of Old West towns. They popped up overnight as men tried to strike it rich through prospecting. In Tombstone’s case they were digging for silver. And for Bisbee-ites it was copper.
We started our time in Tombstone by walking around the graveyard looking at the various headstones, reading their funny, murderous and racially slurred epitaphs (yes, they referred to Chinese as chinks). Many in the graveyard had been murdered over the same things that drive crime today – alcohol and riches.
Next up we took a quick spin through the historic downtown. Here you’ll find wood-planked sidewalks, false front buildings, wagons, period dress, and re-enactments of the famous Wyatt Earp and Doc Holliday shoot out at the O.K. Corral. It kind of feels like the Old West, Disneyland style. This amusement park didn’t do it for me. I wasn’t able to feel what life in the late 1800′s would have been like. But since we were short on time, I’m willing to give Tombstone another try. Next time maybe sitting in the salon knocking back a beer while playing cards would help.
From Tombstone, we raced down the road to Bisbee trying to make the Queen Mine underground tour. We got there with minutes to spare. The mine is 47 degrees, so we had to quickly pull on our skinny jeans and thick socks while sweating in the 100 degree heat. Not easy! Then we donned our miners jacket, helmet and head lamp to prep for going down into mine. A tram took us 1,500 feet into the cold and dark where an ex-miner explained the history, tools of the trade, and how a mine operates. We were able to tour the mine because in 1975 the Queen Mine closed its doors, as did all the Bisbee mines, because all the mine-able copper had been extracted. The tour was a unique and interesting experience!
The underground mine tour, coupled with our next stop at the Lavender open pit mine, really gave us a chance to look at mining first hand. The Lavender mine is a gaping hole in the earth covering 300 acres and is 950 feet deep! It is enormous! Seeing the large scale destruction man is capable of leaves you thinking about what you “need” vs. what you “want”. The copper extracted from these mines is found in all your electronics – from your iPhone to your car. So the more you “want” the bigger and deeper these holes are going to be.
There is also a museum dedicated to the history of mining in Bisbee, Bisbee Mining and Historical Museum. The museum is backed by the Smithsonian Institute and has some great exhibits that helped fill-in the facts and give you a better feel for what life in a mining town would have felt like in the late 1800′s.
In the museum there was a guest book. I flipped through it to see what people had to say, and I think it wrapped up how most Americans feel about mining and consumerism. When asked, “what would you be willing to give up so that copper mining could slow?”, the resounding answer was “NOTHING”! Then the follow up question of, “is mining worth it?”, the answer was an absolute “YES”!
It’s hard to imagine life without some of our gadgets and conveniences. I know there is no easy answer. But I do feel that more Americans could consume less and stem some of the destruction we’re leaving in our wake.
After the mines closed their doors, Bisbee worked to reinvent itself. Now the Old West town that is perched in a steep canyon is home to artists and hippies. The town has a very progressive vibe (opposite to the rest of conservative Arizona).
That night we tried to live up to the debauchery of the Old West. I think we failed. We only managed to drink one beer each and there wasn’t any card playing or gun fights.
The next morning before heading out we looked around, walking the steep streets and long flights of stairs that lead through town. Bisbee has our vote. It’s cute, steeped in Old West history, and provides a unique experience to get up-close to mining. We’d definitely recommend stopping if you’re in the area.
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